Showcasing the exceptional expertise of Audemars Piguet, this creation with its surprising design admirably embodies the inventive traditions of the watchmakers from the Vallée de Joux.
With its regulating organ drawing all eyes to 9 o’clock, the new Audemars Piguet Millenary with deadbeat seconds watch provides a live lesson in mechanical watchmaking. The star of the show is of course the new escapement with the sharp edges of the wheel, its guard-pin and the unusual shape of its ruby pallet-stones. The escapement platform has in fact been turned around so as to make the escapement visible from the dial side, and the plate has been hollowed to reveal the mechanism. One can thus admire the large variable-inertia balance guaranteeing enhanced chronometry, and the small white gold inertia-blocks enabling fine adjustment. A discerning eye will also note an unusual construction in terms of the balance-spring. Calibre 2905 features two balance-springs placed one on top of the other, but at a 180° angle. This “head-to-tail” flat double balance-spring system has several advantages. It does away with the need for the so-called Breguet overcoils on balance-springs, which are very tricky to build, and thus avoids the potential inconveniences linked to the slightly asymmetrical development of the balance-spring. It automatically compensates for the possible poising flaws of the balance-springs and it eliminates imprecisions due to the vertical position of the watch without needing to resort to a device as sophisticated as a tourbillon. All these distinctive features enable an extremely fine adjustment of the sprung balance, which beats at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, resulting in improved precision.
The off-centred subdial at 7 o’clock includes another exclusive technical feature known as “deadbeat seconds”. Already a complex construction in itself, the deadbeat seconds mechanism represents a genuine feat when it is miniaturised to wristwatch size. In its traditional form, deadbeat seconds call for an additional going train driven by a second barrel. In keeping with their persistent quest for innovation, the Audemars Piguet watchmakers decided to explore new paths in order to simplify the construction and economise a maximum of energy. To achieve this, they devised a system with two superimposed seconds-wheels driven by a “differential”: one is free and moves steadily forward, while the other carries wolf’s teeth and moves in jerks – hence the little touch of visual magic and the impression that the watch is literally beating off the seconds.
The Millenary with deadbeat seconds is impressive for more reasons than its precision alone. It is also distinguished by its ability to stay the distance thanks to excellent endurance. The new hand-wound Calibre 2905 boasts a 7-day (168-hour) power reserve. To ensure such autonomy, Audemars Piguet has equipped it with a large-diameter double barrel system featuring a locking mechanism guaranteeing optimal performance. Their combined length and the meticulously calculated geometry means that this two series-coupled barrels are able to ensure a 9-day (216-hour) power reserve. However, the energy supplied by the mainspring when it is fully wound and when it is almost uncoiled is not of optimal quality and constancy. Audemars Piguet watchmakers have therefore devised a locking system that avoids using the first turns of the barrel (1st day of power reserve) as well as the last turns (on the 9th day). The result is a 7-day power reserve guaranteeing optimal performance throughout.
The new hand-wound Audemars Piguet Calibre 2905 is an oval-shaped movement comprising 233 parts. It is derived from the Calibre 2899 movement housed in Cabinet N° 5 in the Tradition d’Excellence. In addition to its outstanding technical properties, epitomised by the Audemars Piguet escapement, it is also distinguished by the care lavished on the shape and finishing of its constituent parts. All components are entirely hand-finished in the noblest fine watchmaking traditions: bevelling, rhodium-plating, and, depending on the part, “côtes de Genève“ and stippling. This concern for detail is reflected on the back of the watch. The sapphire crystal enables one to admire the twin barrels rotating within an extremely contemporary geometrical stage-setting featuring the ratchets and the jewelled bearings. A spectacular dance of suns, stars and satellites, against a backdrop adorned with horizontal “côtes de Genève“. In harmony with the standards of fine watchmaking, the fastening screws with their points of attachment arranged in a triangular pattern are linked by a circle when their direction is reversed. To ensure the harmonious visual appeal of this arrangement, this three-point screw and circle layout is echoed in the centre of the barrel, adorned with a radiating motif known as a sunburst effect. The Millenary with deadbeat seconds is teamed with an elegant hand-sewn alligator leather strap with large scales, fitted with a pink gold AP folding clasp.
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