Even among the most prestigious Swiss watch manufacturers, the equation of time complication is one not often encountered. However, this ingenious astronomic indication showing the difference in minutes between true solar time and civil time has been a consistent offering for Audemars Piguet since the Jules Audemars Equation of Time appeared in 2000. In 2010, the equation of time makes its debut in the brand's legendary Royal Oak watch collection, being introduced in both a stainless steel and an 18-karat pink gold version. The complex movements in these prestigious timepieces also animate a perpetual calendar with moon phases and leap year indication, as well as displays for the times of sunrise and sunset.
This is one of the larger Audemars Piguet Royal Oak watches, although its 42mm case diameter makes it quite a bit smaller than many of the more overtly sporty Royal Oak Offshore models. A delightful creation of casual elegance, the Royal Oak case in gold or stainless steel displays the impeccable finishing and striking angular design which has made it a luxury icon for more than three decades. A predominantly brushed finish is contrasted by hand-executed polished bevels around the strap attachments; the famous octagon bezel is similarly contrasted, and displays the indispensable 6-sided white gold bolts which merge with the screws of the same material seen on the caseback. Silvered dials reflect pure Royal Oak heritage, with the signature "grande tapisserie" waffle pattern, and slender ovoid hands and hour markers in polished pink or white gold. The hands for the various calendar indications, as well as those showing sunrise and sunset times are crafted from blued steel--an elegant touch that provides superb contrast and tremendous visual allure. Small corrector buttons found on the case flanks are present to enable setting of the moon phase indicator and the various displays of the perpetual calendar.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Equation of Time watch rightfully possesses a sapphire crystal exhibition window in the caseback. This allows a clear view of the remarkable 2120 caliber, and its perfectly decorated bridges and skeletonized rotor showing the Audemars Piguet initials and fine engraving work. (However, the rotor can also display symbols or initials chosen by the client) In this complex iteration, known as 2120/2808, the movement comprises 423 parts in total, each being meticulously finished by hand according to the most demanding standards of traditional haute horlogerie. Despite the complexity, overall height is just 5.35mm, a fact which can largely be attributed to the remarkable 2.45mm of the AP 2120 base--to this day, the slimmest self-winding caliber with central rotor in the world. The variable inertia balance with its Masselotte regulating weights beats at the infrequently encountered rate of 19,800 vibrations per hour, and power reserve is 40 hours when the barrel is fully tightened.
Much of the action in the Royal Oak Equation of Time watch takes place out of sight, beneath the dial. The complex perpetual calendar mechanism adjusts itself through the year in accord with the lengths of various months, and even the cycle of leap years. A 135-toothed wheel used by Audemars Piguet for the moon phase indication results in remarkable accuracy for this classical complication: after 122 years of continuous operation, the moon indicator will show a difference from the actual lunar cycle of just one day! Specialized cams, which are calculated for the varying latitudes around the globe allow for an accurate, customized indication of the sunrise and sunset times. The city specified by the client from among 250 possible choices is the one which appears on the angled rim of the dial, along with the graduated scale that the equation of time is read from. The equation of time hand also offers another remarkable feature in this watch: it can reveal the exact moment when the sun is at its culmination point.
Audemars Piguet will produce small numbers of the Royal Oak Equation of Time watch each year, although it will not be a limited edition series, Whether in 18K gold or steel, the reference is fitted to a hand-sewn crocodile leather strap and the elegant folding clasp which when open, presents the gracefully joined AP initials.
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